Absolutely
Sharp hones your valuable
beauty salon shears to be as sharp as, or sharper than
new. We use the Ookami Gold Sharpening System that
provides a precision angle and hand honed edge that
removes the least amount of metal from your shears,
extending your tool's/investment's life. No down
time--Our sharpener works at your site reducing wait
time to only the time it takes to sharpen your shears. You can test and
adjust your shears exactly to your needs with no waiting. Absolutely Sharp works to provide a quick,
precision sharpening at a reasonable price. Our motto
"When Sharpness Counts” says it all—we want you to
safely enjoy and use your prized shears—now and long
into the future.
Salon Shear
Care Tips
Once you have your
shears sharp, taking the time to do the following steps
will keep them sharper, longer:
 | The main cause
for premature dulling of precision hair shears is
cutting oily/dirty, gelled, or "gunked" hair. If
at all possible, suggest to your client with dirty
hair that a shampoo would highlight their new cut and
if they don't want to pay, offer it as a freebie (the
cost of resharpening your shears is more expensive
than the time it takes to shampoo). |
 | Keep your
shears clean. It is very important to keep your shears as clean
as possible.
Use a toothbrush to clean hair and debris from under the
pivot screw. Use this schedule to get the most
from your newly sharpened shears:
Daily… Spray
water on your shears and gently wipe with a clean towel
or paper towel
Weekly…
Rinse under warm to hot running water opening and
closing the blades and gently dry
with a clean towel or paper towel
Weekly…
After cleaning, apply a few drops of oil to the screw
and pivot area of the shear. Massage
out the length of the blades. Gently wipe with “clean”
towel or paper towel.
|
 |
Oil your shears with clipper
oil or commercial scissor oil. Do
not use sprays as some of the propellants can slowly
dissolve nylon and plastic washers. If significant rust
spots develop in the “ride line” (the thin shiny line
that should be along the inside edge of the blades),
they may be ready for the archives and you are ready to
contact your friendly sales person. Don’t let it
happen…..oil is way cheaper than new shears!!!
|
 |
How often should I clean
and lubricate? Daily
is optimal, but is often not possible. A
minimum of once a month and once a week is a good
compromise.
|
 |
Should I take my shears apart to clean?
I recommend that you leave this to the Pro. There are
very tiny parts that can be hard or impossible to
replace if lost.
|
 | Keep all corrosive materials off of
your shears. Letting permanent wave solution set on any part of
your shears will pit the surface, even stainless steel
can be corroded by strong chemicals. Be sure to rinse
any chemical solutions from your shears immediately.
This will help avoid extra charges for re-hollow
grinding the inside of pitted blades. If your shear blades do become damaged by
mishandling, they can be restored to like-new
condition! The cost is minimal compared to
replacing fine hair shears. Repair prices vary based on
the level of damage. |
 | Never cut anything other than hair. Especially do not
cut the top off perm bottles. Keep your shears put away
safely when not in use. People who don't have a clue as
to how precious and expensive your shears are may use
them to open packages, cut cardboard, trim their
fingernails, accidentally drop them, etc. |
 | Proper lubrication keeps the metal
parts that contact and slide against one another from
wearing out prematurely while it gives the hair shear
that smooth effortless feeling you liked so much when
the shear was new. This is because lubrication reduces
the friction and drag between the contacting surfaces.
Lubrication also aids in preventing rust and corrosion
of the metal. YOU DO NOT NEED TO LUBRICATE THE NEW
RIDELESS BALL BEARING PIVOT
HAIR SHEARS.
- Put a drop of light oil or
silicone lubricant between the blades at the "ride"
(the crescent shaped area behind the pivot screw
near the handles) and wipe the excess off with a
cloth.
- You may then wipe down the shear
blades with the cloth (VERY CAREFULLY HAIR SHEARS
ARE RAZOR SHARP!) to coat the blades with a thin
film of lubricant.
- Do this at least once a week but
preferably at the end of each day.
| An aerosol
silicone lubricant has the advantage of blowing out
hair and debris from the pivot area of your hair
shears as you spray it on. Silicones are
preferable to oils as hair does not stick to the dry
silicone film as it does to oil. |
 |
How often should I have
sharpening done?
Usually about every 3 to
4 months or 600 to 700 hair cuts. Let’s do the math,
and this comes out 4 to 5 cents a client. How can you
not afford to do this? |
 |
I have little nicks in my
blades that I can feel when I cut. What should I do? Stop
using immediately.
To continue will
cause further damage and require additional metal to be
removed for correction.
|
 |
Do not place your shears
on top of your station or lay a towel on top of them.
This is the
number one cause of them ending up on the floor, the
washing machine, or the garbage can.
At least put them in a drawer if you are not going to
put them in a case or styling apron.
|
Understanding Your Salon Shears
"Why Are Salon Shears Tempered?" What
does Tempered Mean?
In order to form the
shape of scissor blades through hot forging or cold
stamping, steel must be in a soft state (called annealed
steel). Once all the
holes are drilled and the machining processes are
finished, the steel blades need to be hardened.
The hardening process is called
heat treating.
The blades are subjected to very high temperatures (up
to 2000 degrees F.) for sustained periods together with
prescribed cooling off periods. Heat treating transforms
the internal molecular structure of the steel to a
denser and more uniform state called "martensitic".
The martensitic steel then has very evenly distributed
hard particles called carbides dispersed throughout it. This
hardened state of the steel is the best for edge holding
durability.
This hardened steel is, however, very brittle and breaks very easily.
To add flexibility and strength, the steel shears
blades are subjected to controlled re-heating and
cooling, but at much lower temperatures (approximately
400 degrees F.) This procedure is called TEMPERING.
Tempering
serves to add toughness and makes the blades more easily
sharpened to a keen edge; although it does slightly
decrease the hardness at the same time.
Obtaining the optimum balance of hardness and
toughness is an art and is subject to many differing
opinions. Each manufacture strives to achieve what he
feels will be the "perfect hair cutting
shears/shears" There is, however, no single
standard of perfection. Hair Stylists have many
individual preferences concerning the feeling and
performance of their hair shears.
How does the hardness of the steel affect the
performance of haircutting shears?
Many manufactures of shears will advertise that
their shears are very hard, and therefore are of the
best quality. Usually they will state the Rockwell Scale
measured hardness of their steel or they may refer to
the inclusion of a hardening element in their steel such
as Cobalt or Tungsten. The hardest steel may not,
however, make the best shear for your personal
requirements.
Typical stainless steels used in
shears range from
about (Rockwell Measurement Scale) Rc 48 to Rc 62. High
quality precision shears generally range from Rc 54 to
Rc 62 (shears softer than Rc 53 tend to be lower quality
economy shears). Generally the harder steels are more
resistant to wear and therefore will hold their edge
longer. However the harder steels are often more brittle
and will tend to chip and nick along the edge more
easily when dropped or roughly handled.
The softer steels are more flexible giving the blades
a toughness that resists chipping and nicking. The
softer steels also have the potential to be sharpened to
a sharper edge (good for slide cutting) even though that
sharper edge may not last as long as the less keen edge
on a very hard blade. The less keen but more durable
edge on a very hard steel blade will tend to give a more
"crisp" feeling to the cut and will usually cut with
more noise than the very quiet and smooth cutting
typical of a good edge on a softer steel shears.
So far there is no one steel that gives both the
ultimate smooth quiet cut and the longest lasting edge
together in the same shears. There is a balance that
you must choose for your self to suit your own style.
Shear Sharpening Basics
Hand Honing The Inside Line
We
know that shears are the most important tools of
professional hairstylists, barbers, and groomers. Your
reputation depends on how well they perform. The
reputation of Absolutely Sharp depends on your satisfaction
with our service. We sharpen all Precision Shears using the
Ookami Gold Sharpening System. This system
combines cool, precision diamond sharpening with
gentle hand honing to provide you with the sharpest
shears available. The Ookami Gold Sharpening System gently removes nicks and
wear without damaging your shear blades
and restores your shears to their original factory
condition.
Why hone the inside line of beauty shears ?
Shears can be sharpened with too
coarse an abrasive, then polished too much to restore
the smooth finish. The result is an edge that cuts
well but doesn't last.
Improper adjustment of the arch of
the blade can cause too much pressure on the cutting
edge and shorten the life of the edge. Too little
pressure and the shear can pull or drag the hair.
Alteration of the inside blade
surface can adversely affect performance and is
impossible to correct.